Photos of children

A colleague's son, Maynooth, Ireland, 2007

Here’s another practical tip for you all. When you take photos of a child, get all the way down to their eye level! This will give you some amazing perspectives plus you’ll have a fun time dodging greasy, gooey fingers that are trying to touch the magically attractive front element of your lens :-)

I’m sure you can image that when you take a photo of a small child from your adult’s perspective, you’ll end up getting a picture that a) makes the small child look even smaller, b) usually doesn’t properly show its face, c) instead provides you with ample vistas of the ground (and not the actual surrounding) and d) is just plain boring because that’s how you perceive the world anyway, every day.

So next time you’re photographing the little ones, down at least to their eye level, if not lower — even if this means laying flat on the ground.

PS: The kid on the photo is the lovely and completely adorable son of a colleague of mine.

Fine Wine

Caulfields, Maynooth, 2008">Fine wine at the <i>Caulfields</i>, Maynooth, 2008

And here’s to fine wine. This is anotherone of the shots I had submitted to the “More Than Words” photo competition. This was one of the first photos taken with my (at the time) new macro lens, a 100mm ƒ/2.8 lens, that I had just gotten a few weeks earlier. It shows one of the more “resident” internationals students in Maynooth having a nice glas of white wine in the Caulfield’s pub.

Macro lenses classically come in several focal length, typically around 50mm, 100mm and 200mm. In particular the 100mm ones are quite often used as portrait lenses too as they can give quite flattering perspectives in terms of a just-right amount of perspective compression when taking head-shots or a bit further out. Here’s for instance a very nice portrait of Barak Obama taken with a 105mm lens (thanks to the EXIF data left intact ;-)).

So if you happen to own a macro lens of around 100mm, don’t just use it for macros, give it a go with portraits or other non-macro-y subjects too!

Cheap macro

Cappucino, Maynooth, Ireland, 2009

Here’s some more about your everyday, cheapo point-and-shoot camera, rather than expensive D-SLRs: Macro shots.

With their short focal lenghts and their small sensors (and the resulting rather large depth-of-field, that is the “depth” of the in-focus parts of the image) they’re really good for taking close-up shots. Most of those little buggers have a dedicated macro mode (have a look for a small flower-symbol somewhere on it) that allows you to get the camera really close to your subject, so that you get a good magnification. While you can achieve similar effects with a dedicated macro lens on an SLR, they easily costs 5 times as much as whole point-and-shoot camera, and you usually have a hard time getting an extensive depth-of-field. In fact, most of the time you’ll find yourself stopping down to ƒ/22 or less, and still not having enough depth-of-field. But then, stopping down the lens that much means that you also need loads of light to take the shot, and you will also get refraction problems from the small aperture… All in all, not nice.

The shot above shows the cappucino I just had a few minutes ago, snapped hand-held on my office desk, with no special lighting or anything. The camera: a 100 EUR (or less) FujiFilm Z20.

Upside Down

Bachelor's Way, Dublin, Ireland, 2007

Any kind of reflection usually makes pictures more interesting. But flipping a picture upside down may also be a good attention-grabber.

First of all, it takes time for your brain to process the image, figure out what’s going on and why things are slightly odd, why we are not fully at ease when looking at the picture. This takes a couple of seconds or so. It’s only then that we start actually discovering things in the image, like the person on the bottom right, or the cute little waves from the falling rain drops.

Although one should always strive to make a picture as easily “decodable” as possible — that is a clear subject, simple, organised structures and colours, all in a somewhat logical composition — doing the exact opposite may also create some interesting pictures. Here’s a thought: The fact that you have to “fight” a bit with the image until you get through it may just be enough to get some extra attention, so that ultimately the viewer spends a bit more time with it to discover what it has to offer, instead of just skipping to the next image…

Night shots

Moon and St. Patrick's College, Maynooth, Ireland, 2009

You know what happened a couple of nights ago? A really nice constellation of Moon and chapel of Saint Patrick’s College could be seen right from our balcony, including a nice cloud which added to the mood. Unforunately I left my own camera over in the office that day, so I had to dig out Steff’s 7 year old Nikon Coolpix 5700 to capture the scene.

But anyway, having the camera rested on the balcony table, and snapping off a few 8 second exposures, I had to smile a bit when our neighbours had the same idea: Unfortunately, they were trying to use their flashes to get the picture right… This made no sense, as 1) any on-camera flash is so weak that it usually never reaches more than a few meters (and the trees and tower were a couple of hundred meters, and the moon a couple of hundreds of thousands of kilometers away). Thus, all they were doing was 2) wasting their camera batteries and 3) reducing the contrast in the picture (as the flash would have lit the slight mist in the air and thus just make the blacks look “milky”).

What you need to do in such extremely dark conditions would be first of all turn off your flash. Then, make sure you rest your camera on something (a tripod would obviously be the easiest solution) and use the self-timer to take the shot (as pressing the shutter yourself would shake the camera and your picture will loose crispness).

So as I was saying in the last post, it’s not the most expensive camera that takes the photos, but the photographer with his experience and taste.

It’s not the camera …

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Berlin, Germany, 2009

… but the photographer, that makes the photos. Many people think you need great gear to take great photos. Or shall I say, they equate a “big” (and hence automatically “good”) camera with shooting only “good” photos. While there is some truth in this, there are also a few misconceptions.

First of all, think of a cook and his pots. A ★★★★★ star cook can cook a great meal pretty much anywhere, even in your shitty student accomodation kitchen with the most pathetic, 25 year old pots. But in turn, buying some ridiculously expensive, extra special coated cast iron cooking gear alone probably won’t make you a good cook…

It’s the same with cameras. Of course, having better pots and pans helps a good cook to prepare his meals more easily, and special equipment is needed for some special treats (say a small blow torch for a decent crème brûlée). In photography, sometimes there’s no way around a decent tele lens with a wide aperture, or a super wide angle, or a flash gun. But given a few ingredients, its a cook’s experience, taste or shall I say his “art” that allows him to prepare a good meal. The same holds for a photographer: seeing interesting subjects, lines, colours, light situations, then creating strong compositions, not to mention careful post-processing — that’s actually all independent of what camera you’re using!

Anyway, I just want to rant about all the people that tell me “oh, that’s a great camera, you must be a great photographer”. No, first of all you probably have no clue about the camera, what is capable of (and what not). Second, just having the means and the guts to spend ridiculous amounts of money on photo equipment just doesn’t make you good photographer — that just means you’re either rich, or you’ve lost your senses.

It’s what comes out at the very end of the process, what’s left after you have made all those millions of decisions involved in taking and processing a picture — this is what may or may not make you a “good” photographer.

Cross processing

Arklow Harbour, Co. Wicklow, Ireland

Reminiscent of the other post of a cross-processed “nautical detail”, here’s another one.

I took it just last Friday when we had a friend of Steffi’s visiting us (Lenko), who’s currently on a Europe-Africa-Tour (he otherwise lives in Canada). We did a little day tour around County Wicklow, which is just south of Dublin. That included hiking in fairly touristy Glendalough (Irish for “valley of two lakes”) — but which is also quite popular among locals — and then back up the east coast to Dublin.

The photo above was taken in the harbour of Arklow, a little coastal town. There were loads of boats rusting away in the sun, next to some big signs complaining about how the EU ruined the lives of Irish fishermen. While there is some truth to it, some of them were also rather populist in nature. But anyway, I tried to make this shot as simple and organised as possible. Keep the fairly geometric shapes as neatly organised, with not too many in the frame, but still enough to make it interesting.

Here are the rest of the photos from the day.

Systems Biologists

The Hamilton Institute's Systems Biology group, Maynooth, Ireland, 2009

Planned months in ahead to ensure that everybody would be there, today was the day for the group picture of my colleagues from the Systems Biology group here at the Hamilton. Of course, not everyone was there, but that missing person will be edited into the picture (if all goes well) at the top right.

As the weather report promised, the weather wasn’t going to play along nicely; in typical Irish fashion it was, in fact, bucketing down. Hence, the picture had to be taken inside. But that was a wonderful opportunity to get a slightly more interesting shot as compared to the standard, boring group photos outside in front of the institute’s logo.

So I got everyone to come into the seminar room where I had put up a chair on a table so that I could be high up above everyone. After arranging them according to their height, I asked everyone to bunch in as much as possible (the number one tip for group shots!) and shot with a wide angle focal length down on them, bouncing the flash off the ceiling. The picture turned out exactly how I had pre-visualised it this morning, brushing my teeth.

Again, for group photos you 1) want to get people as close as possible together (almost uncomfortably close in real life, but it won’t look like it on the photo!). This not only makes the group look more like a group rather than loosely assemble individuals, but also adds a small bit of fun to the whole action. 2) you want to tell people clearly and explicitly to look directly into the camera, and nowhere else. If there are other people around you, send them away, or people will inevitably get distracted and not look into the camera. 3) take at least (!) three photos or more, because you will always have someone with eyes closed at the exact moment you release the shutter. Having several photos allows you then to clone some pairs of eyes between photos so that everyone can have theirs open in the final image :-)

Silhouette Chouette

Perlan, Reykjavík, Iceland, 2005">Statues next to the <i>Perlan</i>, Reykjavík, Iceland, 2005

On a recent trip back home I’ve spent a few hours digging through my boxes in the cellar, which hold loads of old stuff, memories, dust-catchers, etc. One of the things I brought back was a few DVDs with some older photos (i.e. pre-2007), so that I could put them on my photo hard-disk (as well as backup) so I can access them more directly. Et voilà, here’s one from my trip to Iceland back in 2005.

It was taken next to the Perlan, on a little hill in Reykjavík, just after sunset. And the lesson of the day is: Look for silhouettes! When your background has wonderful, intense colours, or it is simply much brighter than your foreground, expose for the background and dial up the blacks in the picture to remove as much definition from the foreground as possible.

As shown here, this works particularly well for sunsets.

For the curious, here are some more photos and background information on that trip to Iceland.

Hang your pictures

Mounted photos, Maynooth, 2009

So you’ve got all those pretty pictures from your past vacations, your last hike, that picnic with your beloved one in a park or that snap of some dark, dirty, gritty side street of Dublin. What do you do with it? Well, you leave it to catch digital dust on your hard drive. Or, if you’re really nice, you’ve made some small 6×4 prints at the chemist and sent them to your dad.

But what then? Every time I hold a print of one of my pictures in my hands, I think: Gosh, it’s so much different compared to the screen… so much better! I guess there are a number of obvious reasons for that, but I’m sure you’ve also made the experience that a “physical” copy of a photo just adds so much more to it, compared to seeing it displayed on your screen (even if it’s a 24″ monster).

I’ve just spent an hour hanging 10 of my favourite pictures up at our place, which I’ve mounted on some reasonably priced A3 passe-partouts from eBay. And guess what: All the money and effort getting the high quality prints, the tinkering with the card board and last but not least the tedious hanging (getting them straight, equally spaced, at equal heights) was definitely worth it.

So go ahead, make prints of your best photos, mount them and completely rediscover them in their new incarnation!

PS: Here’s the seller’s shop listing where I bought the mounting equipment: You’ll need picture mounts, mounting boards and ideally some acid-free tape to mount the pictures properly and them frame them. If you don’t want to frame, you can just glue the stuff together, like I did.